InIn early fall of 2021, I got the idea I should go on a cruise. Earlier that summer, Hong Kong had loosened and then suddenly re-tightened its travel regulations around COVID, and the city, for all its spectacular beaches and charismatic jungles, both concrete and natural, was beginning to feel like the safest, most beautiful ward in a prison hospital. I had never been or wanted to go on a mass market cruise before, but as the rumored potential end date for Hong Kong’s strict COVID restrictions began to stretch into late 2022 and beyond, I allowed myself to imagine I might meet some interesting new characters — if not new friends — on board, or at least get out far enough to experience the ocean in some profound way. Maybe I would see the stars for the first time in years.
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